A TRIPLE RIDE TO ZANSKAR
LADAKH, yet again!! Well, this was never the reaction from any of the
IBIS guys when a ride to Zanskar was proposed for the first time in
March 2009. Though the original ride plan for the year was meant to
head towards Tibet, the 50th anniversary of Dalai Lama's exit and
restrictions by Chinese authorities had ruled out the ride. So, it wasIBIS guys when a ride to Zanskar was proposed for the first time in
March 2009. Though the original ride plan for the year was meant to
head towards Tibet, the 50th anniversary of Dalai Lama's exit and
Ladakh again and this time via Kashmir.
(Uncle and Tejas clicking the pic)
This year's ride plan included, starting from Jammu, Srinagar, Zojila, Kargil, Rangdum, Padum, Parkachik, Kargil, Batalik, Hanuthang,Khaltse, Lamayuru, Alchi and Likir before hitting Leh (first leg of nine
days). This was our second bike ride to Leh in less than an year. Having done
Nubra on previous occasion, we decided to do Khardung La once againsince it was Czia’s first trip and we could not have left out the so claimed
highest motorable road in the world at 18,380 feet. After Leh, our plan
was to ride on Leh-Manali road till Gramphoo and then take a turn to Spiti Valley before emerging from Rampur (this second leg would have been
for ten days).
While one was aware of more notorious and higher mountain
passes like Tanglang La (17,582 feet) and Baralacha La, our first concern
was the famed Zoji La pass. At less than mere 12,000 feet, Zoji La guards
the entry into Ladakh from Kashmir. For Czia, this would have been the
highest height under natural conditions. Her behaviour and forbearance
at that height would have defined her journey ahead. As a matter of
contingency, we had booked air tickets for Czia and Deepika from Leh,
just in case……!!
(for preparations and related issues, please click here....)
The team IBIS (IRON BUTTS ITCHY SOLES) composition for this
year was as under
Now and Then.....
Simranjit Singh AKA Punjab Rocks - The ex Mr Chandigarh was joining
us for the second consecutive year. He wore different looks this time....leaving
it for you to guess! His new Bull 4S could not wait.
Tejas Dutta, the body building, marine engineer whose life revolves
around three things in life - spend time inside the engine rooms,
ride his bike and do photography. The noisiest machine, he rides
a Bull 5S.
Subhash Inamdaar AKA Uncle - the youngest of the group. At 58, he
was back on his Pulsar for the second consecutive year.
out last year and was making it up this season. He was flying on his
Unicorn.
Sachin Chavan AKA Dada - the biggest of all, this adventure business
pro was on his second trip after Changthang last year. This time,
he had a pillion, Mahesh who is a bike guy himself. They rode Sachin’s
Bull Standard.
last year too but it was the first one for Shaily. They rode double.
(Bull 5S). We were on our second trip to Ladakh too but it was the first one to that
part of the country for Czia. We rode triple.
(Needless to say, we missed our buddies of Changthang ride - Sanjay AKA Flier (Busy with professional work), Mangesh AKA Maggie (Posted in North East and busy), Karan (Out of the country on an assignment) and Balwant AKA Ballu (Just selected for Army and busy winding up). They, of course, remain members of our group, IBIS. This was going to be a ride with a twist. Because of professional commitments as also because of the fact that they had traveled on this stretch more than 50 times and also, though partially, because of the fact that accommodation and lodging had been tied by them, Ajay, Deepika and Czia gave Jammu-Srinagar stretch a skip. KJ Reddy drove Bhageera till Srinagar and then came back. Also, Sachin and Mahesh were to accompany us till Kargil and then skip Zanskar because of shortage of time). The group started to arrive at Jammu on 23 June 09. Sachin and Mahesh were first ones to arrive from Mumbai. Uncle and Modak, also from Mumbai, walked in on 24th as also Simran and Tejas (Tejas had driven from New Delhi to marry up with Panjab Rocks on 23rd). Niranjan, Shaily, Deepika, Ajay and Czia were, as it is, at Jammu. We had a get together on 24 June and enjoyed the movie of previous year ride (For a free copy, please contact Ajay K Raina at thefirstthambi@gmail.com / +919697501111) as we sipped in spirits. While picking up a fresh drink, the common statement heard was,” We have to leave early tomorrow and it’s a long drive. So, let’s not over do the drinking part…” or words to that effect. But in line with the occasion, there seemed to be lot of in-coordination between hand and head and it was always the hand that prevailed. It was a great fun being together once again, watching the past and eager to re-do the whole thing. We broke off early (After all, midnight is the earliest hour of the next day) but the laughter could be heard for quite sometime.
Day 1: 25 June 09. The group kicked off at 0600h from Jammu.
The drive from Jammu to Srinagar, first for all of the riders, turned out to be quite charming. The weather was fair and once beyond Patnitop, it remained pleasant. In view of the ongoing Amarnath Yatra, an early start was planned and that is why there was no getting stuck except at Jawahar Tunnel. A good brunch of famed Rajmash-Chawal at Peera Morh (Short of Ramban) turned out to be a great morale booster. A friend, Imran Khan had organized a cup of tea and was waiting at Banihal but a few riders of the group missed him and carried on only to get stuck in the traffic jam at Jawahar Tunnel.
Others had a good cup of tea and snacks before moving on. The vista changed suddenly the moment bikers came out from the other end of the tunnel. Most of the guys were overwhelmed by the sheer natural beauty while the others felt sad about the situation in the Valley despite all its beauty and charm. The group closed in at Dal gate at around 1600h and the last man, KJ Reddy, after going for an unplanned sight seeing, pulled in at around 1700. Rainas had, in the meanwhile, checked in a beautiful houseboat, Coronation at Boulevard Road, after landing by air in the afternoon.
It was now time to just sit in the front balcony of the boat, put up your legs after a 321km drive and then wait for the sun to set in. (We parked our bikes in a parking lot that was just opposite the boat with an arrangement that we would pay the parking staff Rs 200/- lump sum for next two days, irrespective of numbers of drives in and out – a small price in such a situation).
The sight from the boat was so beautiful and evening so gorgeous that simply sitting in the comforts of the houseboat added another meaning to the word enjoyment. As the sun went down and lights came on, the panorama became more picturesque.
The new addition, musical boat, added to the festivities. With banks of Dal lake crowded with tourists and long queues outside eateries, Srinagar appeared to be miles away from the disease called terrorism. We had ordered Kashmiri food in the boat itself.
Day 2 : 26 Jun 09. For those who had not been there before, Gulmarg appeared to be a good choice. So, all Mumbaikars and Tejas took off for Gulmarg early in the morning. Today, ugly face of reality of Valley was about to be seen. It was a bandh-cum-Chalo Chasham-e-Shahi call given by Hurriyat Conference to protest against detention of a hardliner character (long live our democracy that tolerates such comics). The city was virtually shut before afternoon prayers (when would we de-link religion from politics?) and barricades had come up to stop mobs from marching towards Chashm-e-Shahi. Such arrangements, however, did not affect the group headed towards Gulmarg. Rainas, Niranjans and Simran, after breakfast on the houseboat, drove to Mughal Gardens.
For Simran and Niranjan, the first timers, it remained elusive. The road to Shankracharya was also closed till evening. We decided to enjoy whatever was being offered. Life and activities in Dal lake, per se, had remained unaffected throughout the day. As a Shikara guy said,” Dal lake does not have anything to do with Hurriyat”, he echoed the emotions of a common man on the street.
.
They sailed before us for a yet longer ride. It was a nostalgia coming back. Dal has been fascinating all through its existence.
quoting very reasonable rates for their goods. There is also a general realisation of the fact that tourists and travellers bring along bread for them. During the general strike on 26 June, both the protesting mobs and paramilitary forces on duty, left the tourists untouched. Boulevard is full of life throughout the day and over crowded during the evening. It is high time that state administration did something more for the guests.
There is a general sense of peace and security for outsiders and that is a good sign. On flip side, Srinagar has become warmer with years. The climate in other spots like Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Sonamarg remain pleasant as ever.
Day 3 : 27 June 09. We did come out of our cabins at 0630h today. By the time we got our steeds from the stable and loaded our stuff, it was 0730h.
Based on the observed efficacy, I replaced the new pipe with the old one. It was then realized that the culprit was actually the 18 litres tank that had leakage through its fuel lid. A wrap of polythene and the problem was sorted out forever. The breakfast of bread pakoras and mixed pakoras was not really great but it filled our tummies.
By the time we hit the nearer edge of Sonamarg, our group had got split because of photo shoots. We were with Niranjans and Simran when we halted at the beginning of the town. After a water break and some rest, we moved on, leaving Simran to do some photography of Thajiwas Range.
Just a bit ahead, the road gave way to a track that was muddy, dusty and in a very poor condition. Rains do cause slush and trigger landslides but absence of showers means dust, loose mud and near blindness when vehicles from the other side cross a bike rider. To our luck, we had a full army convoy crossing us just ahead of Captain’s Morh. Having waited for sometime to let the big trucks pass, we soon ran out of patience as dust settled on us. Actually, we were still waiting on a turn when Simran drove past shouting,’ Clutch gaya.” We too joined him. With the small size of a bike making two way travel possible, we negotiated the turns as army trucks kept on passing by from the other direction. The moment we crossed India Gate, the scenario changed suddenly. We were now riding through a cut with ice on both sides and water beneath. The ice to our left was in form of a long ice wall while the other side looked like an ice dump.
Niranjan and Tejas took some time to catch up. The Avenger had got stalled due to overheating and some ice treatment had to be done to cool it off. That had taken some time. Once on top, and as bikes cooled off, Simran’s clutch that had “gone” somewhere, came back.
Here I would put on record an appreciation for K&N filter that I had got fitted just before the ride (Chandigarh - Mr Gurpreet 09417316464; 0172-6574164).
The previous year had seen Bhageera struggling at sharp steep turns with two riders and full loads. This time, with an additional rider, we never experienced any such problems. The filter had changed the personality of Bhageera who runs more smoothly and with more élan now. We resumed our ride after a while but as we approached Ghumri, we were suddenly ambushed. A friend, unknown to us, had come to know of our passage through the area that day. While he was still a distance away, he had organized a cup of tea for all of us through some of his subordinates. Ladies also got a place to use the toilet there. Hats off to J&K Govt, they do not believe in such facilities on such a busy tourist circuit. The friend, Girish, had organized another ambush at Mughalpura where he wanted all of us to have lunch with him. While Bhageera went in, others did not notice the deviation and kept on moving towards Drass. Deepika had used her civil services channels to organize some accommodation enroute. The monitoring of our group by police, therefore, started soon after we crossed Mughalpura. Anyways, since others had moved on, we took leave after a glass of juice and moved on too. We caught up with the tail at Drass and took a break at Drass to pay our respects to martyrs at Drass memorial.
It was a moving experience. Simran actually sat down on the stairs to absorb the effect. The setting of this memorial amidst the heights where our braves had fought a well dug-in enemy (similar to that of memorial at Rezang La that we had visited last year) is simply overwhelming (Long live our Army and its young leaders).
We reached Kargil around tea time, 1700h to be more specific. We checked into JKTDC tourist Bungalow No 2. The rooms were pretty good and at Rs 200/- per room, it was a good deal. However, our stay at Kargil turned out to be nothing special. There is nothing much to write about this district HQ.
Day 4 : 28 June 09. We took time to get ready the next day. With just 125 odd km to our next destination, we decided to start easy. Today, Sachin and Mahesh had to peel off as per the programme. Surprisingly, Mukund also decided to give them company. Actually, his back had been in pain since past three days and he decided to listen to his body. So, from 11, we were now reduced to 08 on 05 bikes. We had a break up brunch at Nishat restaurant. An assortment of breads, omelets, Kashmiri roti, butter toasts, tea and juices was enough to keep us busy till 1100h. A lazy start actually meant a late arrival at the next destination. We had been told about a petrol pump around ten odd kms from Kargil on Zanskar road. We decided to take fills at that point. But a good sense prevailed and as we crossed the DC’s office, I halted to verify the fact from a policeman. We were informed that the pump in question was actually a diesel pump with only one sump (a fact that we verified ourselves later). So, we turned back, crossed Suru River and drove towards Leh for a couple of kms on a dusty road, to take the fill. With an 18 litres tank and four bottles of Pepsi (02 litres each), our 600km petrol content appeared to be ok. Panjab Rocks was carrying 20 litres plastic can (a beautiful product, ex import) and filled it up for all of us. We finally left Kargil at 1130h.
Initially, the road was good but as the metalled road disappeared after an hour’s drive
and we hit a never ending dirt track just ahead of Khumbathang, the scenery around us turned beautiful to gorgeous to stunning to dazzling. Czia passed her time (approx seven hours) reciting rhymes she had picked up in her play way and taking catnaps in between. By now, she had becoming adamant against wearing her gloves and she hated socks inside her fur-lined shoes.
bike finally ceased and had to be left in a village six KM short of Rangdum. We had crossed 37 water channels that day with six huge ones. Even the locals were astonished to see the nature’s fury that particular day. Once Uncle’s bike refused to move and sun disappeared behind immediate horizon, we took a decision to distribute our tasks. Niranjans went ahead, looking for JKTDC (we had our bookings tied up) Alpine Hut while rest of us tried to bring back the life into the bike. As darkness fell, we (Rainas) also drove off. When we reached Rangdum, Niranjan and Shaily were already there, getting things organised in the Dak Bungalow. After dropping Deepika and Czia, I returned to the spot where Uncle, Simran and Tejas had been trying to start the bike. One key of the bike had broken in the process. Cold water had probably made it too brittle – just an example of the beating that equipment takes in such terrains. By that time, Uncle, fully drenched, had started the signs of hypothermia. To our luck, one Bolero taxi landed up from somewhere. Uncle was wrapped in a blanket and put in the taxi. The driver was instructed to drop him at the JKTDC. However, at that very moment, his headlights went off and he got stuck too. I pushed Uncle’s bike to a policeman’s house and after using Simran’s tools, Bolero also got ready to move on. We closed in well past 2000h. With no electric supply and nix heating arrangement, things looked pretty gloomy. Czia, however, decided to take all that in her stride and quietly went off to sleep soon after our arrival but not before keeping her mother on toes for a while as she played and ran from one room to another. Wet shoes and pants were making our life miserable but then Dorze, the caretaker, pitched in. In such a remote area where practically nothing grows and people live off dairy products that they barter for rations, he showed utmost hospitality towards all of us.
He ran around to get us hot water, tried to make us as comfortable as possible. He then organized a hot meal of Dal, rice, roti and egg curry from a local dhabha and served us the same. Night thereafter was comfortable. Uncle, due to good care, also became normal and had dinner with us. His guts and courage, at that age, are really praiseworthy. it had been one hell of a day for others and Czia appeared to be unaffected except a nasty bruise on her forehead that she had gathered from my jacket. We were all apprehensive about the effect of water related cold on our bodies.
Day Five : 29 June 09. The next morning, however, things appeared to be OK for all of us. The feedback on the route ahead was not very encouraging, though. There were supposed to be as many water crossings ahead as we had crossed the previous day. In fact, as per the Bolero driver, two crossings soon after Panzi La were much bigger and deeper than what we had encountered till now. So, despite all the reasons to start late (just 120 odd Kms left), we started at 0800h. Aim was to beat sun’s progression that would create those water crossings, in time a well as space. We said bye-bye to Uncle with a heavy heart. A local resident policeman was requested to organize a truck lift for him (Deepika’s services connections came to our rescue here. He (Zahir Khan) actually helped Uncle load the bike and got him a raw deal of Rs 400/- only). Uncle, however, was in no mood to call it quits. He decided to stay at Kargil and await our return. Our ploy worked and we crossed numerous water bodies but all in the stage of infancy. Milestone markers start a few KMs short of Rangdum and continue till Panzi La. After an easy drive of an hour and a half, we hit the marker pointing at a labourers hut at Panzi La.
We got clicking while ladies got busy with local womenfolk. Deepika tried her best to find out as to how a lady had got her nails tattooed but the language remained a barrier and she had to give up.
At 14000 feet Panzi La, power of God’s care of small children came to fore once again. Cold and wind chill factor notwithstanding, Czia decided to climb a small pile of snow turned ice. It was a sight watching a small fragile looking kid falling flat on the snow and then struggling to get up on her own. We started again while two camera pros, Simran and Tejas, stayed on for some more time.
After driving for almost a KM, we came across a board announcing Panzi La. So, like Zoji La and Polakong La, Panzi La alsohappens to be a longish pass with one particular point marked as the pass proper.
This pass separates greenish Suru Valley from barren Zanskar (Copper Star) Valley. View is great from the pass as well as the track immediately ahead. There is a huge glacier (Drung Drang Glacier) moving down at an unnoticeable pace, there is a beautiful greenish lake down below in the valley and pure mineral water flows along side the road as you leave the pass.
Once at the bottom of the mountain feature, we hit a valley and straight road for a KM or so before hitting a wide nallah with a bridge. However, at that time, ice had blocked the approach to the bridge and one had no option but to drive through the dried up nallah bed. Stod (aka Doda) River now joined us for company. The drive ahead was more or less of a similar nature, ie, one beautiful sight after another, dirt track, some water channels but very sparse population. The first village we hit after Panzi La was Atting, 35 KM short of Padum.
There is a police check post and a makeshift restaurant (Thank God). Greenery re-starts from here. The day was again very warm with bright sun nullifying the freezer effect of the snow clad mountains. We had a hydration-cum-Maggi break at Atting before setting out. After Atting, frequency of settlement increases quite a bit. In fact, there is cultivable land here onwards while Rangdum has none. We drove non stop except a brief halt ten KM short of Padum to close the group. Stod River marries up with Lugnak River just short of Padum and both give birth to Zanskar River.
As we reached Padum, we found a degree of prosperity not seen this side of Panikher. There is electricity, metalled roads, greenery and cultivation. We checked into JKTDC Bungalow at around 1530h and were treated with a hot cup of tea. Yaseen, the caretaker, in spite all the comforts of staying at a prosperous place, was no match to friend Dorze of Rangdum. All his services came for some price, like Rs 20/- per hot water bucket. Dorze had no heating facilities but he did not even mention that. Even govt run establishments have different set of rules from one place to another! We went out after a while to take a walk in the market. Market at Padum does not have anything great except internet connectivity but it is functional and caters for the local needs. The area remains cut off from rest of the world for more than six months an year. Govt has done a wise thing – the local hospital has three local doctors posted as permanent staff. So, while rest of the world forgets Zanskar Valley for those cold months, they stay on, looking after the local patients and that too without feeling homesick. We just checked on the medical emergencies during those months. Yaseen had a very simple reply,” No one falls sick here. The max one gets is cough that goes away after two days of drinking warm water.” Padum is the biggest town of the Zanskar Valley and is quite scenic but the actual beauty of the valley lies elsewhere. I would recommend that Padum must be used as an administrative base and areas ahead and around must be explored in details. The road connecting Darcha in HP with Nimu via Padum is under construction. Once complete, it will cut down the necessity of going down to Zanskar via Kargil. In fact, we will have a new circuit, viz Manali-Leh-Nimu-Zanskar-Darcha- Manali but then the actual romance of hardships will go. Better do it via Kargil and do it fast (are you bikers reading?). By the way, natural affiliation and dependence of locals is on Nimu, Lamayuru and Leh than Kargil. With the road coming up, An already lonely Rangdum will get totally isolated since Parkachik onwards (towards Kargil), affiliations are different. Having done market survey and having weighed different options, we went to a local restaurant (more than four restaurants have same name and menu card, in any case, is a Xerox copy of one source) for dinner. It was a horrible affair. We decided against stuffing ourselves with the Tibetan food, prepared by natives of Bihar. Heart broken, we walked back to our rooms. The stay, however, was comfortable.
Day Six : 29 June 09. Next day morning, we had two issues. Bagheera’s rear mudguard stay/frame was caving outwards and mudguard had started touching the wheel when saddle bags were loaded. Something had to be done about that. The only workshop there had only one side of the frame and welding was the only option.
Of all of us, Czia had a great day at Zangla. This small village on the present road head on the way to Nimu, has a king of its own. The place is known for natural beauty, a small palace on a hill and a nunnery in the local monastery.
All the nuns flocked to Czia and showered their affection on her when we walked into the nunnery after paying our regards at the monastery. In spite of their tough living conditions and penury in such a remote land, they pampered her with all kinds of eatables and works (hats off).
Days later, Czia still talks and remembers her Didi from the nunnery. They had made her feel special and she fondly remembers that treatment. Unknown to most of us, this place is patronized by numerous foreigners who come and stay either at the nunnery or PWD guesthouse or in houses.
There are beautiful short climbs to areas and settlements around as also the charm of staying in a nunnery.
By the end of the day, we had enough pics and stories to tease life out of Simran and Tejas who were requested not to use word, “Zanskar” but “Padum” since they had only seen Padum. They were also conferred with the honorary degree of Doctorate for their research work on Padum (and not Zanskar). Incidentally, our time plan, duly disturbed by the bike repair work, forced us to skip Karsha, Thongde and Phugtal.
We packed up early after a good meal prepared by Yaseen and his friend. Aim was to start early again with the intent to defeat weather in time and space, yet again.
Day Seven : 01 July 09. We started at around sevenish in the morning from Padum as pages on the calendars changed from June to July. The weather was packed and it appeared to be staying like that for at least few hours. We took our first halt at Atting once again as we bracedourselves for the climb to Panzi La.
The climb and gradient from this side is much more than from other side. As we approached the pass, backrest of Bhageera started to shake. Simran and Tejas were not in sight but we decided to take a break and unloaded the bike. At 14000 ft with a huge glacier in front and no sun on top, it was a chilling experience.
By the time Simran caught up and lent his tools and we eventually moved on, we had spent around 45 minutes on top. God had been kind....no AMS.
Overall, ride till Rangdum turned out to be a much easier affair. Actually, the weather was packed up and mercury had taken a good dip. That had actually meant less water on the road. We paid a quick visit to Dorze at JKTDC to pick up our spare baggage as also check on Uncle.
Just outside the village, on a small bridge, we came across a group of bikers, mostly foreigners, being led by Prem (first one to Marsimek La). We chatted for a while and they clicked Czia's pics. In fact, the first pic on top, showing all three of us on Bhageera, was clicked at that place. Weather in Suru Valley was getting nastier by that time. But what we saw on our way to Parkachik, did disappoint us. There was hardly any water and those massive streams had turned into trickles. But just short of Parkachik, it suddenly started to rain. Sandwiched between ma and pa, Czee (her pet name) kept on singing one of her favourite rhymes,” Rain, rain, ….come again…..”
Our waterproof riding kits kept us dry while others in the group got wet while taking out their capes. We had handed over the allotment letter for this day’s accommodation at JKTDC Hut at Parkachik to caretaker’s brother, Ali on our way up. So, the caretaker, Ibrahim was all ready when we descended into his niche. His buddy, Habibullah was also an enthusiastic person and between two of them, they looked after us very well. Bhageera shed its loads while we waited for others to catch up. It was raining pretty heavily by then as the group trickled in.
Simran took to special fondness for Habib whom he started calling his school buddy. Evening was chilling cold. A hot cup of milk and some running around later, Czee started to dose off. After a tasty meal, we hit the sacks for a comfortable night.
Day Eight : 02 July 09. Destination today was Lamayuru but the route decided was different from the routine one. We planned to hit Kargil before lunch and then drive through Batalik to Khaltse and then back to Lamayuru. We started at 0740h as the sun took over the skies.
Drive till Kargil was OK except a crash by Niranjan that injured Shaily a bit and disfigured Simran’s bike when latter tried to brake to avoid driving on to the fallen bike and skidded in the process. We halted for a photo shoot of Nun(7135m) and Kun (7085m) from Purtickchey, the best place to see those peaks.
There is a JKTDC hut at Purtickchey and this village is approx seven KM short of Panikher (from Kargil’s side). There is a beautiful expanse in the river bed of Suru close to this hut. Overall, an ideal place to spend sometime, if not a full day. We planned to have a quick bite at Kargil. But guys preferred phone calls over the meals and after picking up Uncle form JKTDC complex, we moved on to Batalik after taking a fill at Kargil. The next 60 KM drive saw us crossing yet another pass, Hamboting La (13,202 ft) that separates Kargil from Batalik. The defence road is in very good state and we had a short lunch break soon after leaving Kargil and before setting out on the climb to Hamboting La.
By this time, Czia had graduated from only milk and chicken diet to Maggi, rice, roti, curd and whatever she could lay her hands on, in true bikers’ spirit. There were others in the group who would pamper her with dry fruits and sweets. She was having a blast in her own way. We crossed Lalung and Silmo, both picturesque settlements before crossing the check post at Batalik. Thereafter, the drive along Indus was again a memorable one. We crossed Dah bridge (not village), Biama and Hanuthang but did not halt to say hello to Aryans (we will do it exclusively and at some other time). Surprisingly, we, in fact only me since we were leading, saw a big brown snake near Hanuthang. Just short of Hanuthang, we came across a mountain stream. At that point of time, water looked greenish blue. The pools that were being created beneath the water falls looked more like Jacuzzis than natural puddles. It is, by far, the most beautiful water body, at least, I have seen in my life. May be it was that particular day, that particular light condition or whatever, it was simply too good. While we stood there appreciating the beauty, Czee put her foot down to have a dip in the stream. Finally, the good sense prevailed and she agreed to do with a face wash with that ice cold water. We crossed Khaltse around tea time but decided to skip tea to save time. The stretch beyond Khaltse, as we took a U-turn to go to Lamayuru, made us richer in riding experience. With the link road to Lamayuru closed for widening work, we took the Leh-Kargil main road and watched in awe as we climbed those deadly hairpin bends. Once at Lamayuru (the link road is being widened. At Lamayuru, it was almost four lanes wide) Lamayuru, we realized the absence of Niranjans.
can you spot the bikes?
The mystery lay in the fact that their bike was number two in sequence after our bike while three more bikes were behind them. While we had made it to Lamayuru just as darkness had taken over the skies, the three bikes moving in the tail had also closed in next 15 minutes or so. From middle of the group, a bike had gone missing. Frankly speaking, I was not really worried about Niranjan per se but I was too anxious about Shaily. Firstly, the couple had achieved the feat of falling on clean roads thrice over last one week, secondly, his bike was having issues with disc brake and of course, it was getting late by minute. The spirit and worry that a group has for its members was being felt at that moment. Uncle and self on former’s bike and Simran and Tejas on Tejas bike, went around to all hotels in Lamayuru to look for them. We had actually already checked into Hotel Moon Land and we wanted to rule out the possibility of them checking in somewhere else though chances of such an action were very remote. Simran and Tejas then went up to the Y junction at NH while self and Uncle stayed back with fingers crossed. Fortunately, around 2100h, Avenger drove into the Y Junction and was then guided to hotel by S and T. The mystery was then solved though we had also anticipated a similar happening. After Khaltse, there is a link road to Lamayuru while NH to Kargil takes a rightward climb from that point.
There was a small board saying that the road ahead had been closed because of blasting work. When we, in lead, reached the spot, we read the board, believed it and carried on on NH which, incidentally, takes you to Lamayuru again. Soon after we took the turn, Niranjans arrived at the same point and while they were contemplating the next action, a couple of taxis drove towards the link road. The couple then followed them in the belief that taxi guys know the best. Soon thereafter, all the rest came in, read the board, saw no taxis and carried on on the NH. Niranjans and Taxis drove for 16 kms only to return. They were only two kms short of Lamayuru at that point but road did not exist thereafter and they had no choice but to turn. So, 16+16+18=50 additional kms as a penalty for not believing BRO and showing undue faith in taxi drivers. In the end, fortunately, all had been well.
Day Nine : 03 July 09. The hotel, Moon Land (Rs 500/- for a double room) was selected after rejecting Hotel Niranaja, the most prominent in the area on two accounts – firstly, Niranaja had common conveniences and no attached baths and; secondly, rooms being on the second level/first floor, one had to lug the baggage up. Otherwise both the hotels quoted the same rates. In the end, we found Moon Land to be a good deal. It has a good restaurant, hotel is clean and spacious.
The space for sit out is an added bonus. Lamayuru does not get as many Indian tourists as foreigners. But it is a highly recommended place for one and all. One agrees with the fact that all the monasteries appear similar to a novice eye, the place has its own charm. Our hotel there also had a small counter selling cottage industry products. We bought a few items – while woolen stuff was good and walnuts reasonable, quality of dried apricots was a sham. The food, though, was good. I felt it was a bit over-priced since menu card was not produced. The monastery is one of the best and the sun rise too charismatic. The landscape around Lamayuru is unique and as the sun rays change angles, the view changes from better to still better.
One full day with two nights may be the minimum duration to enjoy such a phenomenon. It is, undoubtedly, a lens man’s delight. Czia had her own joys at Lamayuru. She met a few old ladies (who hang around the monastery) and decided to call one of them as Naani.
Prayer wheels caught her attention in a big way and next half an hour was spent rolling each one of the wheels. We had decided to check out just around 1200h and we did the same, making best use of the first half of the day. As we prepared to move, two of the staff ladies came running with a packet of walnut for Czia. We had already bought a similar packet the night before and as it is, it was too big a gift. So we thanked them and declined the offer but only after accepting one single walnut as a token. These guys are great. We re-commenced our ride around afternoon.
The view of the hairpin bends is outstanding from top. Bagheera’s rear brake had some issue and with an overloaded bike, one had to use only heaviest gear and remnant of brakes to negotiate those killer turns. We hit a very good stretch of newly built road just ahead of Khaltse. There is a beautiful restaurant, near Nurla ahead of Khaltse, on left of the road.
(Indus from left)
Day 10, 11,12 : 04, 05, 06 July 09. We had initially planned to stay till 05 July and kick off on 06th. But Leh’s charm worked again and we extended our stay by a day. The forenoon of 04 July was declared an OTW (Own Time Work) period. So, everybody went out for whatever work they had. All the bikes required some tinkering after the beating of Zanskar. Simran’s bull had its shocker nuts coming off plus a broken rearview and headlight because of the crash courtesy Niranjan the other day.
Tejas’s 'tank' was OK but needed some maintenance. Bhageera’s tyre had to be fixed while Avenger and Pulsar (Niranjan and Uncle) went in for small little issues. We got the tube repaired at the puncture shop behind Juma’s place. The mechanic turned out to be a lousy character. In spite of me insisting that the hole had been too big to render sealant ineffective as also the air pump, he certified the tube as road worthy. Then he screwed up the wheel balance by fixing the tyre wrongly on the rim. The latter issue was sorted out there itself by making him re-do the fitting but the former was to bug me later. In the afternoon, we went for a ride to Thiksey Palace.
Tejas’s 'tank' was OK but needed some maintenance. Bhageera’s tyre had to be fixed while Avenger and Pulsar (Niranjan and Uncle) went in for small little issues. We got the tube repaired at the puncture shop behind Juma’s place. The mechanic turned out to be a lousy character. In spite of me insisting that the hole had been too big to render sealant ineffective as also the air pump, he certified the tube as road worthy. Then he screwed up the wheel balance by fixing the tyre wrongly on the rim. The latter issue was sorted out there itself by making him re-do the fitting but the former was to bug me later. In the afternoon, we went for a ride to Thiksey Palace.
Bagheera as the reason. All this while, though, there were no symptoms of AMS and our belief on the subject got further strengthened. As we started downwards and halted at South Pallu for a hot cup of tea, she had already stared playing with Deepika’s gloves. Once back in Leh, she kept on telling all the shopkeepers, waiters, follow bikers and everyone else that she had been to K’La. (Till then, when prompted, she would say Zoji La). This continued till she posed on the marker at Tanglang La and even today, it has been “Tanglang La” with lips specially rounded to pronounce it. The maximum attention Czee got was at Leh because of the obvious reasons. System of people clicking her pics continued as we lazed around at Leh. Once back from top, I examined Bhageera and found him to be cooled down by then. Juma was closed due to Sunday so we had to wait. There is an embroidery shop opposite Hotel Laser Mo near our hotel. We found his rates to be very reasonable and work pretty neat. So, we got our shirts embroidered from him to commemorate the ride. The effort turned out to be a good one in the end. That evening, we had planned our dinner at yet another favourite, KC Gardens. We were there a bit before the evening was to start but to our disappointment, we discovered that yesteryear’s bar had turned into a juice bar. Lack of spirits took the fun away. We did sit through some lousy performance by one of the guests before having our dinner.
iron butts!!
All the surrounding peaks and mountain features were under white sheet but the pass itself was pretty nude. But the impact of the place, as ever, is great. The descent to More Plains passed through a stretch where dozer work was on.
While three of us managed to scrape through in time, last two bikers got stuck on the other side. More plains were as dusty and muddy as they had been the previous year. The only difference was a few more new culverts that had come up. But a couple of muddy patches still remain.
To that extent, rain-paved surface is better for control on the bike. We halted at Pang for a sumptuous meal, as lavish as it could be. One reason was the appetite and the more emphatic motivation was the fact that Tejas was footing the bill as a penalty for delaying the group by half an hour earlier on. Tanglang La had been crossed and now it was all excitement for Kinjal crossing. We drove through our great canyon and as we took the last turn, our morale hit the boots.
There was hardly any water on the culvert there. All the excitement vanished into thin air. We reached Sarchu at 1630h or so.
Road widening work across in J&K had mucked up the beautiful plains. Just across the police check post, on the left of the road, a better stay arrangement had come up since our last visit. Based on RCC plinths, the place had a sleeping tent (06 beds), a kitchen tent and a restaurant tent. So, unlike other dhabha accommodations, it was neater, more insulated to aromas of spices and food and had a better surface. No toilets, though. The place was already booked. Four youngsters from Mumbai and Pune had taken the whole tent for 01K. We sat down to chat with them while S, T and N were sent to scout for tented accommodation further to the South. The bikers were fascinated by Czia and they clicked the pics as we exchanged notes. The first place we checked out was the first camp, Himalayan Saga. It turned out to be a neat place but being managed by a bunch of high-headed servant class people. In the absence of proper manager, the room boys were behaving as if they were God’s own. Once rates were quoted and an attempt was made to negotiate, they simply walked off on us. With their camp nearly full and lots of four wheelers parked around, we must have appeared to be lowly bikers to them. Whatever was the reason, it was a disgusting experience. Hats off to the owners who trust such a beautiful property with people of such conduct. Gold Drop was the next one. Again, no manager but staff was very courteous. We hired three tents (three beds each) not because of mathematics but because of biology involved.
With one meal included, it cost us Rs 4900 in total. Rates in that part of the world go up as the sun comes down. Our tent had dirty linen and quilt.
It was changed immediately. The tents were bigger than those in the previous camp but flush in the attached bathroom did not work because of lack of running water. But they made up for the same with unlimited supply of hot and cold water. We had to force our way a bit to get hot water bottles and had a comfortable night in the end. Over past couple of days, a kind of trance had been set in. This time, we had been taking preventive medicine but once in Leh, we had gone easy with it (no lessons learnt from previous year). It was definitely an effect of AMS that was showing up on self, Simran and Tejas. Nothing serious but for a few hours that day, we felt as if under some kind of drugs. The night at Sarchu was OK except for a spell of an hour or so when I felt my nose blocked and had to get up to administer some nasal drops. 
Day 14 : 08 July 09. We kicked off at 0800h with no one risking to delay the group. Destination was Manali, easily doable kind. The going was not an issue since the road condition was as expected. However, there were a couple of surprises......
Day 14 : 08 July 09. We kicked off at 0800h with no one risking to delay the group. Destination was Manali, easily doable kind. The going was not an issue since the road condition was as expected. However, there were a couple of surprises......
First was the beauty of Baralacha La. Totally covered, unlike other three passes on this road, it was a beautiful scene to behold. It was all white as far as eye could see and a beautiful morning sun added to the beauty of the landscape. Though there
First was the beauty of Baralacha La. Totally covered, unlike other three passes on this road, itwas a sheet of ice on the road, it was manageable. A tanker, however, had toppled a few minutes before we reached the spot. No casualties and no major damage since huge chunks of ice had prevented it from rolling down a couple of hundreds feet into cold waters of nallah below. Things can get dangerous at times. After a brief halt at B’La, where we erected rock towers, going with the tradition, and where Czia sang a poem in sheer joy, we started the roll-down towards Patseo. Here, we came across the second surprise –
A huge and fast flowing current. Nothing unpleasant except wetting of shoes and lower half of the trousers. I had picked up a pair of North Face trousers at Leh for Rs 700/- and it was tested here. It passed the same. Road short of Patseo and ahead of Zing Zing Bar remains bad as ever. But after Patseo, GREF (BRO) has started the construction work and a major chunk has already been laid (losing charm by day). We halted at Reva’s Dhabha at Darcha for a brunch break. We had crossed the place twice last year and the lady owner was able to identify after an effort. We had a multi-course meal there. The place is neat and you felt like having everything on display there. We came across a French couple there (They are making a documentary for a French channel. Titled something in French and meaning, "Two Wheels to Hell", the documentary covers original bikes the world over. In India, they were working on Bullets). The lady was riding a totally pink painted Bull while the man was on a standard black. They were having some issues with mudguard frame. By now, even Bhageera’s frame was developing a crack. We all were to meet again at the welder’s shop at Keylong. To get the welding work done, we had to take out the battery. A wrong move and I short circuited the electrical system. A small problem would have been turned into a monster in no time. 
But to our good luck, there was a mechanic co-located with the welder shop. While the bike was being tended to, a group of youngsters landed up at the workshop, on their way to Leh. They had some issues with tyres/tubes and footrest. A smooth drive, without any hassles is no drive at all and though one gets bugged tending to irritants, such moments become unforgettable for the years to follow. Such moments also add to our experiences. Our beloved Bhageera develops small little problems now and then though it is just one year old. But look at the beauty – it has never left us stranded. All its problems appear around population centres and are generally managed easily. We had a heavy tea break at Koksar at Punjabi Dhabha, being run by a non-Punjabi. True to its relationship with IBIS, Rohtang La gathered black clouds and it started to rain suddenly. There have been reports of huge dust on both sides of the pass but we encountered only water and slush because of this one mood swing of Weather God. The descent towards Madhi became tricky. At a point just short of Madhi, Bhageera went out of control and skidded heavily towards a huge boulder towards mountain wall. Good sense prevailed and I managed to straightened the handle to let tyre and tube absorb the shock rather than spokes or shockers. To my amazement, the huge rock moved and rocked a bit, thereby, absorbing the shock and leaving Bagheera intact and scratch free. Had the bike swung in a similar way in the opposite direction or had the rock been rigid and with sharp edges, outcome would have been totally different.Sometime during that drive, Deepika lost one of her Cramsters gloves. Too many things control our destinies and we feel we the ones who actually do it……so wishful but wrong.
We headed straight to Negi’s Wood House in Old Manali. Unfortunately, our favourite place turned out to be a flop show. The new contractor has ruined the whole system. If the same guy is there next time, we would rather go elsewhere. We had our celebration dinner at Moon Dance, again a favourite and became King Fishers, literally!
Day 15: 09 July 09. It was supposed to be a rest and recoup day. The poor performance of mudguard frame had been a sour point during this trip. Having seen the problem with other bikers too, I was looking for a solution to the problem. I got a remedy at Sonu-Monu motors in Old Manali. A heavy duty, chrome plated (they charged double= Rs 1400/-) sheet of iron is now installed on my bike and the issue is killed for ever. We spent day walking up and down the slopes of Old Manali while ladies got busy with their shopping spree. Czia had a ball of a time trying out different dresses and checking out everything on sale from purses to caps to hair bands. We had another celebration at Moon Dance where we missed Uncle who had decided to call it a day a bit early due to upset stomach. We broke off around midnight and hit the sack after some packing. It was now getting closer to the time to depart. Incidentally, our plan to do Spiti had been dropped, like last year, on a consensus. Spiti must not be rushed through was the popular opinion. We intend doing it around onset of winters later this year now.
. We left Manali at 0800h after the pic (above). Uncle’s bike had been having trouble with the piston rings. He planned to branch off at Kullu to get the issue resolved while all others were to ride till Mandi from where Jammuites were to turn right while Chandigarh bound S and T were to carry on straight. Uncle, after repairs and a visit to Rewalsor, was to move on to Sri Anandpur Sahib on the way to Amritsar. He also planned to see border drill at Hussainiwala, Ferozepur before reaching Simran at Chandigarh. So, there was much left for the young old man. We stuck to this plan after a sumptuous breakfast short of Kullu. The bye pass at Kullu proved to be a boon. We took a short break just short of Mandi before parting. That was not a pleasing moment. Why do rides come to an end, after all. 437Km ride to Jammu finished at 2300h without any major issue. We had a bit of rain and Czia made us halt ten times with a few false alarms. We reached home so did Simran and Tejas the same day while Uncle’s odyssey continued for a while. At the end of it all, it is time to look back. Irrespective of the process of sprouting of the idea, the whole process had been a deliberate progression. The importance of such an approach is but obvious. As a back up, we had air tickets booked for ma and Czee from Leh. Assessment was based on the fact that Zoji La is actually not very high and any problems short of Leh may not be insurmountable. There is also enough medical support available till Leh.
Czia may/may not remember this trip but this would remain a definite landmark in her life. And we would have enough memorabilia to ensure this. The trip highlighted the fact that God takes care of children. It also brought out the fact that we fool ourselves when we look at children as soluble or breakable articles. They are much tougher, flexible enough to absorb physical shocks and fit enough to remain fresh after a day long drive. Czee learnt quite a few things like dozers and cranes build roads, importance of good roads, fact that snow turns into ice after sometime, that mountains could be of numerous hues, that marmot does not give you enough time to click a good pic, that Bagheera has to go into water every now and then to quench his thirst, that all bad roads are finally followed by good roads, that rocks are bigger cousins of pebbles, that a few trucks are naughty while others are good, that all Ladakhi kids are her friends and…..this list is endless.
Czee hates to be called by any other name except Czia and Czee. However, she has taken fancy for NUNU (Ladakhi- boy) and calls herself pa’s Nunu whenever she wants to show affection. Our last trip had seen us skidding and falling on four occasions. With worse roads this year, we did not have a single fall, though everyone else had. God had been protecting her and we got looked after in the process. After all, as Khalil Gibran said, “ Your children are not your children; They come through you but not from you.” As for others, including us, we are maturing as bikers. We have learnt how to sift our loads and how to listen to our bodies. Our group, IBIS is also growing steadily and we hope to make it big. This ride also saw guts of three ladies - Deepika (yet again), Shaily (first timer) and, of course, Czia. By the way, this ride was also a result of Simran’s wish (to do it when all streams are full) and Uncle’s desire (to see Kashmir) that were expressed at the end of last trip. Seeing wishes and desires getting fulfilled is, in itself, a very gratifying experience. All eyes now on Spiti ride in September/October 2009 and Tibet next year ....Insha'Allah!!!
(Pics courtesy Simran, Tejas, Deepika, Shaily,Niranjan and Prem)
with due salutation to BRO, our security forces and (yet to be corrupted segments of) populace that make such journeys memorable.
Submitted by Ajay K Raina, IBIS
AND
for an interactive version, please click here....
with due salutation to BRO, our security forces and (yet to be corrupted segments of) populace that make such journeys memorable.
Submitted by Ajay K Raina, IBIS
AND
for an interactive version, please click here....
